Once they’re nice and clean go ahead and flux the pins.
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After using Chip Quik it is extremely important to remove all Chip Quik before resoldering the screen, or component, chip quik is very brittle and has a low melting point, this will cause cold solder joints, we will go over how to approach removing this later on in the tutorial.īefore doing anything, dip a Q-Tip in your Isopropyl Alcohol and clean the pins of the vertical ribbon cable (move the Q-tip, gently, in the same direction as the pins), this is to remove any contaminants on the old solder joints. It is a great de-soldering tool, however it is NOT good for soldering. It melts around 180c – 200c (great for sensitive chips/components) and stays molten for around 8 seconds allowing you to remove up to 40 surface mount pins easily with a standard iron. First let’s talk about Chip Quik I use leaded Chip Quik SMD removal, which is a low melting temp solder. Then heat it up with your iron and gently pull the staple out. One end of the staple is soldered to the board, get it good and fluxed up, Place your solder braid on the solder joint and wick away as much solder as possible.
On the backside of a board bend the two legs of the staple upward, flip the LCD Board and remove the two screws. You’ll find two small Phillips Head screws and a staple that holds the Vertical ribbon cable to the LCD Board. We’ll need to unscrew the LCD Board from the front half of the shell, remove the 10 Phillips Head screws, place the LCD Board on something that can support the LCD Board without putting any pressure on the ribbon cable. Pinch the ribbon cable connecting the LCD Board to the Motherboard with care and gently disconnect. Rem ove the six case screws, earlier DMGs use Phillips Head screws, newer DMGs use Tri-Wing security screws.
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With the screen removed from the LCD Board you can more easily leverage the rear polarizing/reflective film, without damaging the horizontal ribbon cable, and will give you full access to the inside of the screen to clean it corner to cornerīacklight, Solder, ChipQuik, Flux, Solder Braid, Isopropyl Alcohol (70-90%), a sharp razor blade, toothbrush, q-tips, paper towels, Tri-wing screwdriver, phillip’s head screwdriver, flush trimmers, heat shrink tubing, gloves.īivert, backlight controller, capacitor kit, diode/transistor kit, auxiliary 5v Buck/Boost Regulator, celebratory whiskey and any other mods that you’d like. Transistor Q1 (replace with 2SA933 PNP Transistor)Ģ. Diodes DA1, DA2, DA3, DA4 (replace with DAN215 Diodes) Resistor R2 (replace with 100 ohm 1/8 watt resistor) Capacitors C4 (replace with 47p ceramic cap), C6, C7, C8, C9, C10 (replace with Nichicon 1uf 50v electrolytic caps)
We will hand build 25 numbered limited edition prototypes including a Game Boy for €250 which you can order on the right via the paypal link (Delivery: Early March). We will spend the next 2 to 3 months finalising the design. So, we have started a Plan B which is split into two phases: Research & Development and Production.
But as both gamers and makers, we try, we learn, we adapt and try again. But we did not reach our goal of €65.000, so we received zero funds. In December 2014 our Kickstarter campaign was supported by 200 backers in 6 continents who pledged €25.000.
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